Christmas in Bethlehem

I want to tell you about Christmas in Bethlehem. Firstly, I am sorry that it took me so long to get back online. In any case, Christmas is marked with much solemnity in Bethlehem, which is one of the major Christian cities in the West Bank. We had our Sunday celebration at the Greek Catholic Melkite Church on the 24th. Yet throughout much of the Mass, we could hear the beating of drums in march. We all went down to Star St, which leads to manger square, to see many ranks of Palestinian Boy and Girl Scouts. Amongst the Christians, scouting is very popular, and is not only limited to children. For Christmas, Christians from all over the region come to Bethlehem to welcome the Latin Patriarch.

So these scouts where marching a drumming, and it was quite a spectacle. I really haven't seen a parade consisting only of scouts. But yes, now I remember one that I was a part of many years ago, when we lived in Maine. What a sight! You could imagine how proud I was to have been a scout. So, they line themselves up at the terminal, the point where Israel and Palestine can cross the wall, near Rachael's tomb. The Patriarch, the leader of Catholics for the Holy Land, Jordan, and Cyprus, comes by car from Jerusalem, passes by Rachael's tomb and continues in procession all the way until the Church of the Nativity. There he has Evening Prayer and his famous midnight Mass, the one attended by diplomats and the president of the PLO and others.

We had our midnight celebration, however, at Bethlehem University. Bethlehem University was founded by the initiative of Pope Paul VI. The LaSalle Christian Brothers run the university which serves both Muslim and Christian Palestinians. The often consider it an oasis, because within its walls, they are free for friendships and dialogue in a way that seems impossible between Muslims and Chistians.

Anyway, I was filled with energy because we mixed our choir in with theirs for the Mass. I was reminded how energetic university students are. We have celebrated in many special ways, and I hope you have too. We have been tying up many loose ends before we leave Bethlehem for good. Next week we are in Galilee, and then on to Jerusalem. Merry Christmas!

In Galilee, you will see Jesus, Alleluia.

It’s been about a week since I wrote to you. It’s not because I have gotten sick or anything like that. We took a short little trip to the Israeli side for a couple of days, staying in the city of Nazareth. I understand that there are about 60 thousand there, and I believe that it is majority Christian. You need to understand that there are not only Jews living in Israel. About twenty percent of the Israeli population are called "Arab Israelis". So, Nazareth is a town that is mainly Arab, but there are also Jews living there. And also, please remember that not all Arabs are Muslim. About two percent of the overall population in the Holy Land are Christian; made up of Catholics (Latins, Greeks, Armenians etc.), Orthodox (Greeks, Armenians, Syrians, etc.), and some hundreds of Protestants of different denominations.

When we got into town, our guide, Peter, pointed out to us the precipice of the hill where it is said that the residents tried to cast Jesus out of Nazareth. It was after he preached in the synagogue and declared that no prophet is accepted in his own place. But I should back up a bit. We had spent the whole day touring, Sunday, and finally arrived in Nazareth in the early evening. We drove past Tel Aviv, coming from the south and stopping first in Caesarea on the Mediterranean. We saw all sorts of ruins from Roman, Early Muslim, and Crusader times. That' s where I got my picture snapped with my buddy Daniel from Texas. We then went on to Haifa, in the north. Some will remember that Hezbollah rockets fell here last summer. Anyway, we had our Palestinian style lunch and then went to the Carmel of Our Lady, Star of the Sea. This place is believed to be where Elijah the prophet hid from Ahab and Jezebel (1 Kings), and there was a long drought in Israel. This is where he finally saw the rain cloud, no bigger than his fist coming from the west. Over the cave is a beautiful church in honor of Mary. We were only allowed fifteen minutes, but it was enough time to enjoy the friendship of such a mother.

The next day, the highlight was going up Mt. Tabor. This is where Jesus was Transfigured before the disciples Peter, James and John. Of course, we couldn’t walk up because we get really the best of treatment wherever we go. Pilgrimage is a part of the economy here, so it was all well planned that we could take cabs up to the summit after the point that the tour bus could no longer proceed. We had much time for prayer and there had our Mass. The Franciscans have a welcome house here, and the treated us to an excellent lunch.

After we returned to Nazareth, the sisters with whom we were staying had some plans for our group. They wanted to show us their archaeological excavations beneath there convent. So after our dinner, we went down in to rooms that were really on three levels. First was a vaulted room with a cistern along side. This was identified as from the Crusader times, 12th century. Then, we were about ten feet lower in what the archaeologists thought was an early Byzantine or Judeo-Christian church. Descending further, we were in a room identified as a first century Jewish home. Even further down into the bedrock was a tomb. So, we are all intrigued of course, and the sisters wonder if they haven’t found the tomb of St. Joseph. We have no proof but these speculations that I won’t bore you with. While in the holy land, I try to give my scientific mind a break. If I let my doubts take second place than such unexpected excursions become a real adventure. Tuesday’s highlight was the Mt. of Temptation monastery built from caves halfway up a cliff face near Jericho. That's where we commemorate Jesus' temptation by the devil in the wilderness. There is just one monk in the whole place. Greek Orthodox men can go there for or a retreat, or they can be banished there.

Now I can’t leave off writing with out talking about today. Anyone who only wants to hear tourist stories please close the browser. Six of us had the opportunity to drive into the Judean Desert south of Bethlehem for a visit to the Bedouin community there. Bedouins are nomadic people who live in tent and other temporary housing. The make there living by herding and by making crafts and things that they sell. A French sister who works here let us come on her weekly trip to deliver medical assistance to the people. All along the way, we could see much more clearly how the Palestinian land is being divided and absorbed into Israel. I do not intend to be political, but only report what I saw with my own eyes. The Jews had a settlement along the way to where were headed, and it was the strangest thing. It was so isolated, maybe a community of a few hundred. They isolated themselves in the middle of the desert. They have military guard and a high security fence. And why? Perhaps because Israel military occupation allows such things. Israel clearly has long term plans for the whole area. After the settlement, we passed about 500 yards of mounded up and crushed rock. This town, in the West Bank, was destroyed by Israel and all its people forbidden to settle there. What remained standing on the opposite side of the road was only a tiny mosque whose minaret had been damaged. Also we saw a large area that was an Israeli military base now abandoned. No Palestinian can go there. There was another large restricted area, that has only begun to be built up. It will probably be another settlement. Finally, we arrived at the Bedouin camp and recognized a people so marginal and so poor. I do not condemn any Israeli but only the greed that leads such a disregard for human life.

Please all have a Merry Christmas! And may you each welcome Christ into your heart so humbly as animals welcomed him into their manger. I have written a homily for Dec. 24, but since I have no congregation nor faculties, I share it with you in the blog entry previous to this.

A Homily

This is a homily I might give to a group of pilgrims in the Holy Land for the Fourth Sunday of Advent, December 24, 2006; Lectionary Cycle C.

My friends, we have arrived at the place where Mary prepared for the birth of her beloved Son. We are in that very land, soon to be celebrating the birth of the savior. With some imagination, we can appreciate Jesus’ life more. He lived an earthly life here among us human beings so that we would never have to live with out his heavenly life. The politics and the religion of this place are not as the were in Jesus’ days. But even this can be for us a meditation into the mystery of the incarnation. Jesus came into a world when most of the people would never have been able conceive of even the possibility of his existence. Now we, along with so many other Christians around the world acknowledge the coming of Jesus, the God-man. And we in a special way draw near to his memory. In this Holy Land, Jesus Christ was born of Mary.

On our final eve and Lord’s day before the Christmas feast, let’s join our hearts with Mary’s. This most blessed of all women is worthy of great honor especially in how she did the will of God. We too are mothers and fathers of Jesus when we do God’s will for Christ himself promised this. Today, the Church places the Visitation of Mary to Elizabeth before us and asks us to reflect more deeply, which comes to us from the first chapter of Luke’s Gospel. At a time when the world could scarcely consider the existence of God the Son, Mary conceived and bore him in her womb. By accepting the angel Gabriel’s word, she was not merely lending her body to God for a period of nine months. The Holy Spirit that conceived Jesus in her womb first alighted upon her intellect. She accepted her own mission and also accepted His, that he would be called the Son of the Most High. The Church honors Mary from the point of the Annunciation as the first Christian.

When you and I bring our hearts to Mary, we learn how to hasten the coming of Jesus and his holy will on earth. Upon hearing the message of the angel, Mary sped off to the house of Elizabeth, her relative. In fact, it was through Mary’s Visitation that Elizabeth was able to conceive, spiritually that is. When we read the early pages of Luke, we see that there are these two stories mixed together. The birth of Christ and the birth of John make sense together as did their two earthly lives and ministries. Remember then how Zechariah ended his encounter with Gabriel. Gabriel made him mute because of his objections that he and Elizabeth were to old to conceive John. After Zechariah returned home, Elizabeth had conceived and thanked the Lord for taking from her the reproach of human beings. Yet there was nothing in this sentence about the very unique privilege she had as the mother of a prophet.

After Gabriel’s visitation, Zechariah’s role was drastically reduced. We can imagine his shame at not being able to declare the good news to his wife. He could only have relations with her and put his faith in God. Neither Zechariah nor Elizabeth conceived of what God was doing in their lives until after some time. Particularly, Mary is the one who was called upon to introduce Elizabeth to her Lord made human. By first conceiving of Jesus through faith, Mary was able to do the works of God, the Holy Spirit. By coming to Elizabeth, Mary brought her to faith. Mary comes today to prepare us for the savior’s birth just as she brought Mary to this knowledge of Jesus. Elizabeth herself put it best when she announced, "Blessed are you who believed that what was spoken to you by the Lord would be fulfilled."

O Immaculate Conception! Prepare our hearts today as you were so well prepared from the beginning by the Father. Blessed are you indeed, O Mary, who believed that what was spoken to you by the Lord would be fulfilled. Blessed will we be today, O Gate of Heaven, to enter into your advent. We are struck today that it is practically Christmas. The fourth week of advent is so short that we can easily disregard its meaning. Let’s make today for us Mary’s day of advent. For with Mary there was no lengthy waiting for Christ to come to her. Tomorrow, we celebrate Christ coming to Mary and Joseph in the flesh. Today, we honor the coming of Christ to Mary and to Elizabeth through faith. In the coming of Christ at Christmas, the destiny of the human race was reversed from one of damnation to one of heaven. In those who adopt a Marian heart, human life moves from ignorance and shadows to life illumined by faith in Christ.

Brothers and sisters, this faith which we learn again today is essential for understanding Christmas. Who would believe the prophet Micah, "You Bethlehem-Ephrathah, too small to be among the clans of Judah, from you shall come for me one who is to be ruler in Israel." Micah foretold this so that we could come again to Bethlehem seeing with the eyes of faith. Though Christ be denied to us a thousand times on our way to this holy day, we now fortify our faith with all of the gifts of the Spirit, including the prophecies from of old.

By conceiving in her heart, Mary not only conceived in her womb, but had the power to proceed her son. She had the power to be as he was. First, she showed this in offering herself completely to the plan of God. Second, was in her hastening to Elizabeth. According to the Letter to the Hebrews, "when Christ came into the world, he said: ‘Sacrifice and offerings you did not desire, but a body you prepared for me...Behold, I come to do your will." Mary could not offer sacrifice like Zechariah had so many times. Instead she offered her body and her will to Jesus Christ. Mary set the standard for spiritual faith and for all of us here today.

Now, we come again to the altar of Christ our God. He offers us his Body and Blood. Take and eat. Behold we are the menservants and the maidservants of the Lord. We come to Christ with our "Amen", our "Fiat". Father, let all be done with us according to your will. Blessed too will we be in believing that all Christ promised will so soon be fulfilled in us, in our midst and in our days. In this Holy Land, we come to receive him as this land once did and as our Mother Mary did so excellently. Holy Spirit, come to us and fill whatever we still lack in faith, hope and love. For nothing will be impossible for God.

The Dead Sea and environs

Yesterday was a day to remember. I would be happy to explain everything, but it helps me to select the things that are the most interesting and to expand from there. Overall, we stopped at the major sites along the Dead Sea.
First, we landed at the archaeological site of the Qumran community. Its believed that a Jewish sect called the Essenes lived here at about the time of Jesus. They led a kind of Jewish religious life, coping sacred texts and keeping their routine of community prayer and meals. These area is also important as the site where certain ancient Biblical scrolls have been uncovered.
After that, we arrived at another Israeli park for a short time called Ein Gedi. There is a spring fed stream here which gives habitat to natural plants and animals as well as a date grove. There are these little creatures that the our Bible calls badgers in some translations and rabbits in others. Also, this place was the site where the young David camped opposite King Saul, who was pursuing him. David held it as a mark of his honor that he had the opportuinty to kill Saul in his sleep but didn't.

We next went further south and to another park. We took a cable car up to a flat mountain where Herod built another of his forts, Masada. The top of the mount is at sea level and the Dead Sea is 1,500 feet below. This castle is more famous as the site where the Jewish zealots were finally defeated by the Romans in 73 AD. The ancient Roman historian Josephus, narrated a dramatic account of the fall of Masada. It involved a two and a half year siege. The Romans constructed a giant ramp in order to burst the walls of the fort. The defeated rebels in the end were left with the choice of Roman slavery or death. It is a very important story in their history. I was amazed by all of the Israeli youth that were visiting. I encourage you to look at the hollywood movie based on this.

Finally, we swam in the Dead Sea. Little swimming is actually possible because the water is ten times saltier than sea water. One merely floats there, and ought never submerge the head. We had our lunch there and then swam. No one had any fear of cramping. I no that I am very blessed to be here, thanks to God. Please pray for me as we go to class for three days. We can't go swimming all the time.

Jewish history

Yesterday's trip out was mainly to two sites. The first is known as the tomb of the patriarchs in Hebron, or the mosque al-Ibrihim. After that, we went to one of King Herod the Greats many castles, Herodion. It was a site where Jewish rebels later staged their resistance to Roman occupation. About the mosque/synagogue dedicated to the patriarchs. This was a place where one could sense the tension between Moslems and Jews. The site is especially sacred to Jews because it is the tomb of Rachel, wife of Jacob and the mother of all Jews. Yet, since the end of the Crusader period, the building, dating from the time of Herod just before Christ, has been used as a mosque. It was my first time in a mosque as well as in a synagogue. We were lucky, being allowed to visit both the Jewish and the Muslim sides. Israeli security control both entrances, even though Hebron is a Palestinian city. The situation reflects of course that the Israelis are in full military control. Also, it reflects some tragic violence that has taken place at that sight in the past, to all of our shame. I will not detail this. The orthodox Jews were very generous to our group, offering us an explanation of what they believe as far as gentiles are concerned. The even showed us the Torah, the first five books of the Bible. We were privileged to see the things most sacred to Jews. After that we saw all of the architectual marvel of the al-Ibrihim mosque. Though this building is seperated, I really believed that there was a unity of purpose. In spite of all the necessary security, all there, Jews, Muslems, Christiana, remember those founding people of faith, Abraham Sarah Isaac Rebecca Jacob, Rachael, Leah, and Joseph. This site is a reminder of the need to seek peace. All have a duty of pursuing understanding. We Christians have a special role to play, I believe. We benefit by knowing Christ as our peace, and so we are called to identify what is good in other's faith. All very much share the desire for peace and unity, not only Christians.

Glory to God in the Highest

Yesterday, we visited some great sites. First we went to the ancient monastery of Mar Saba, in the Judean desert upon the Wadi Kidron. We were driving along this precarious road, descending toward the monastery and the wadi (a stream bed which can be found dry at certian times of the year). Other than two stone towers, we could not tell that we had reached Mar Saba until we were right on top of it. This beautiful Church was built right into the cliff. The whole complex grew out of caves that had been settled by the monks 1500 years ago. Today there are 15 monks, but in earlier times, there were maybe 500. The monks were at prayer when we arrived, and so we were not allowed to enter.

Next we were in the Shepherd's field, in a town east of Bethlehem. We had mass there. Again, caves figured prominently. I would say we are almost cave explorers. The shepherds would herd there sheep into these natural caves at night in order to sleep and provide protection for the flock. The is a beautiful little church from the 1950s built above the cave where we had Mass. It was from about this area that shepherds received the message of the angels to go to see the newborn Christ.

I have realized that we are a truly blessed people to followers of such a God. Jesus Christ does not abandon us to the fully weight of our own passions. We ought not trust what begins only with ourselves. If we build on the solid rock which is Christ, we will be blessed in all we do. I testify that my own religion has become more simple by being here. How much time I have tried to rationalize with God, always seeking to work on myself more and more.

Christ is teaching me the prayer of the heart. Lord Jesus have mercy on me a sinner. Whatever I in tend to do will be blessed and Christian when it comes first from a heart bound constantly with that of Christ. I'll finish by telling you that we were at the Milk Grotto today. This is the place where Mary nursed Jesus, a place of privacy away from the manger. Mary's prayer too, changed when she encountered the incarnate Christ. She first pondered all these things in her heart. May God bless your day in the Lord.

Words good, pictures next time

I am not going to go nuts with the camera. After all they sent me here to pray, but a few illustrations probably won't hurt.

At this point people might want to know where I have been, and what are my first impressions. Well this will be. What I won't do at this early point is make any kind of judgement on the Palestinian Israeli strife. I will narrate things that are eye opening, like the wall I mentioned. Apparently in the night, the Israeli military just came into Bethlehem and and two boys, 11 and 12 were badly injured. That's a word of mouth report, but that's how all the news has come to me so far. And people talk a lot. The planners of this trip were smart. After a month here, we will stay the rest of the time in Jerusalem on the Israeli side of the wall. After I have experienced both sides, then I will be able to describe my roadmap to peace in the Middle East. I will also have to decide if the map can be seen all at once or if there are really many pieces.

The highlight of Bethlehem is certainly the Church of the Nativity. It is controlled, I would say, moreso by the Greek Orthodox. Yesterday we had Mass in the cave where Jesus was born. There is an altar there for Catholic use, but it cannot be the main one over the spot. This is reserved to Greeks. In the floor under that altar, there is a stone marked by a 14-pointed star which reads "Here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary" in Latin to that effect. We had time to pray there and experience many things which I wouldn't want to ruin for my reader.

In meditating on Christmas, I was somewhat aware of the personal and generally human difficulty into which Jesus chose to come. One Palestinian priest who we met offered us this. The revelation of God came down upon the earth as one giant drop of water. When it struck the mountain of human experience, that mystery was spread and divided. When it hit the peak, it took two major parts, the Eastern and Western church. On the Eastern side, the water spread into rivulets of the many Orthodox communions and so forth. In the west, the water also spread in many comunities both within and without the Roman church.

It seems that we are now reaching this level point far beneath the foot of the mountain. What differences do we still have that are not illusive? We are saturated, rather evenly, with grace. So it seems that we have "muck". How to be grateful for the "muck" is next time.

Anyone speak Arabic?

Hey y'all. I found an internet cafe at long last. And here I burn away my half-hour.

Where am I? Bethlehem, Palestinian authority. We got in very early Saturday morning and tokk a bus the "long way" in order to bypass the mounting "wall of separation" between the two peoples of this land. When it is completed, it will totally cut Bethlahem of from Israel.

Bethlahem was until recently a majority Christian city. Anyway, many draw their spiritual strength from the Church of the Nativity. Hopefully I will be able to load some picture of the spot where, according to tradition, Jesus was born of Mary.

There is so much respect here, every shopkeeper wants us to come by just to have coffee. In this town, tourism is everything. Our group is becoming somewhat famous here, as one guy was offered half of without having to bargain at all.

I wish I could bring the food back with me too. Yes the food is amazing, fresh, Mediterranean, healthy. A perfect cure for fatty airline fare. I wish I could tell you more about the beautiful things that are in store here, but so far the food has gotten me pretty psyched. I start Gospel of Luke class today and tomorrow we have Mass at Nativity. More on that later.